Finally, tomorrow, October 1st, the liquor tax on beer-like beverages will be unified. In conjunction with this, that Kinmugi will also finally become beer.
Suntory will release "Kinmugi" and "Kinmugi <75% Less Sugar>" as beers on October 6th. Furthermore, a new "Kinmugi <Hojun>" will be launched on October 13th.
Kinmugi first appeared in 2007, marking its 20th year since launch this year. It has long been a beloved new genre product, also known as "third-category beer." With the liquor tax revision in October, it will be reborn as a beer, with an increased malt ratio.
I had an early taste of the new Kinmugi at the "'Kinmugi is Becoming Beer.' Taste Experience Tour Media Briefing" held at Suntory's Musashino Brewery in September.
That 'Kinmugi' Becomes Beer, Aiming to Be an 'Affordable Beer'
Kinmugi, Kinmugi <75% Less Sugar>, and Kinmugi <Hojun> will appear as beers.
In fact, Kinmugi is a flagship brand, accounting for about half of Suntory's total beer-like beverage sales. It is the company's largest beer-like brand, surpassing even "The Premium Malt's" and "Suntory Draft Beer." That Kinmugi, enjoyed by so many, is switching from a new genre to beer. When the policy to make it a beer was announced last autumn, I was quite surprised by the news, which felt like the world had turned upside down.
Why the switch to beer in the first place? The affordability of new genre products was due to the difference in liquor tax compared to beer. Previously, there was a difference of ¥49 per 350ml, but this has been gradually reduced. From tomorrow, October 1st, both beer and new genre products (currently classified as "Happoshu ②" under liquor tax law) will be unified at ¥54.25.
The policy is to maintain the price range of the conventional new genre products even after becoming beer.
In other words, the previous advantage of "cheaper than beer because it's a new genre" will diminish. Amidst this, Suntory chose the path of making Kinmugi a beer. In line with this liquor tax revision, several other companies' new genre brands, such as Kirin's "Honkirin," will also transition to beer.
So, it won't suddenly become expensive just because it's beer. As expected of Kinmugi!
Increased Malt Ratio! But the 'Kinmugi' Feel Remains
What changes for Kinmugi when it becomes beer? This time, the malt ratio will be increased compared to before, and the brewing method will change to that of beer. However, if the taste of Kinmugi, which has been loved for so long, becomes completely different, existing fans would surely be confused.
Actually, I had simply assumed that "new genre becoming beer = tasting better." However, it turns out that maintaining the characteristic Kinmugi taste while making it a beer was quite challenging.
Ikuma Mizoguchi, Suntory's brewer in charge of Kinmugi.
According to Ikuma Mizoguchi, Development Principal at Suntory's Beer Development & Production Division, Beer Product Development Research Department, increasing the malt ratio enhances the richness and body of the barley. However, if sweetness or off-flavors linger too much in the aftertaste, the characteristic crispness of Kinmugi would be lost. He said they struggled to achieve both.
The "Umami Malt" and "Domestic Malt" used in Kinmugi. They are said to have blended Umami Malt, which is rich in proteins that contribute to savory flavor, with domestically produced malt in a balanced way.
Therefore, they adjusted the ingredient blend in 0.1% increments and reviewed the brewing conditions. They adopted methods such as the "Decoction Method" to boil malt and extract richness and body, and the "Three-Stage Umami Method" to extract barley flavor at three different temperature zones. By carefully adjusting the extraction and decomposition of components that affect the aftertaste while drawing out the barley's richness, they aimed to achieve both the barley's flavor and Kinmugi's characteristic clear aftertaste.
Mizoguchi states that the background to achieving this taste lies in Suntory's long-cultivated brewing technology.
I Tried the Three New Kinmugi Varieties
At the tasting event, I enjoyed Kinmugi on tap.
The taste is what matters. I immediately tried it.
This is "Kinmugi." This aroma... it's definitely Kinmugi!
First, the regular "Kinmugi." When I drank it, it was even more "Kinmugi" than I imagined. The faintly fruity, floral aroma that I associate with Kinmugi remains. The mouthfeel is light, and the aftertaste is crisp. I also felt that the aftertaste became cleaner now that it's a beer.
"Kinmugi <75% Less Sugar>." It's light and easy to drink.
Next, "Kinmugi <75% Less Sugar>." As expected for a low-sugar option, it's even lighter than the regular Kinmugi. The characteristic pleasant aroma of Kinmugi is still present when poured into a glass.
It has a smooth mouthfeel, like a light international lager. What I noticed after drinking these is that the previous Kinmugi, despite its good aroma, sometimes had a slight off-flavor in the aftertaste. This time, however, there's no such lingering sensation. It's light but the taste isn't muddled; it's crisp and clear. I quite like this one.
"Kinmugi <Hojun>." A rich taste with a satisfying body.
And "Kinmugi <Hojun>" uses some Diamond Malt. It's a beer crafted with attention to both ingredients and brewing methods, including the Double Decoction Method and copper kettle brewing.
Taking a gulp, it has a substantial body. The richness of the barley is prominent, clearly different from the regular Kinmugi. Yet, it still retains the pleasant aroma characteristic of Kinmugi.
All of them are distinctly Kinmugi. Yet, they are genuinely good as beers. Hmm, I see.
An Era of Beer Rivalry: Choosing Your Brand Based on 'Today's Snacks'
Incidentally, as mentioned earlier, Suntory also has brands like "The Premium Malt's" and "Suntory Draft Beer." With Kinmugi joining them, Suntory's beer lineup is entering an era of intense competition.
At the briefing, a question arose about whether Kinmugi becoming beer would cannibalize existing products. The representative believes that going forward, customers will choose from among the same beer category based on their preferred taste and price balance.
Recommended pairings for each brand.
What I found interesting was that each beer has different recommended food pairings. Suntory researches food compatibility, stating that "The Premium Malt's" pairs well with beef, and "The Premium Malt's <Kaoru Ale>" with apple pie.
Ezaki Glico's "CRATZ" Edamame flavor paired well with Kinmugi.
For the regular Kinmugi, they recommended edamame and Chinese salad. Choosing a beer to match today's menu sounds like fun.
What caught my attention was the curry mentioned by the development team as a pairing for "Kinmugi <Hojun>." When pairing beer with richly flavored curry, the beer's taste often gets lost. However, with Hojun, they say you can still feel the barley's flavor while complementing the curry's richness. I definitely want to try this!
Also, after the launch, there's a possibility that both the conventional Kinmugi and the new beer Kinmugi might temporarily be on shelves. If you find both, it's a chance to compare the old and new!
Experience the New Kinmugi at the Brewery in October
In October, Suntory's <Natural Water Beer Brewery> Tokyo Musashino will also host the "'Kinmugi is Becoming Beer.' Taste Experience Tour." In addition to tours of the manufacturing process and explanations from brewers, participants can sample the three varieties introduced here. It's limited to weekends and holidays in October, takes 90 minutes, and costs ¥1,000 to participate. If you're interested, be sure to check it out.
On the experience tour, you can see various equipment used to brew beer. The photo shows a wort receiver, which temporarily holds the wort. It's huge!
You can also observe equipment for packaging and other processes. When in operation, you can reportedly see the lanes moving.
You can also enjoy freshly poured beer at the brewery!
Even as a Beer, It Was 'Quite Kinmugi'
Some people might have been worried that "the taste of Kinmugi would change if it became beer." When I actually drank it, it was quite Kinmugi. Of course, the taste isn't exactly the same. Nevertheless, at the briefing, I found myself nodding in agreement with other reporters, thinking, "This taste is definitely Kinmugi."
Incidentally, this is reportedly the first time that only the characters "Kinmugi" are placed within the barley ring. While inheriting the familiar design, it's a simple appearance imbued with confidence as a beer.
I particularly liked "Kinmugi <75% Less Sugar>." It's light yet has a clean taste as a beer. The 75% less sugar is also a welcome feature. I might want to buy it in bulk when it's released.
♪Mogumogu videos now streaming♪ The YouTube channel "Donburi Channel" presented by ASCII Gourmet delivers interesting gourmet information.
▲Generational gap highlighted by donburi!? Favorite donburi showdown
